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I would like to build similar pantry doors to the ones in the picture below. I am wanting to keep the frame a thin as possible and would ideally like to use this: https://www.bunnings.com.au/30-x-12mm-3-0m-dar-tasmanian-oak-select_p0070186.
I would like to build one door opening normally and another bifold door.
I am have trouble with:
- how do I join the frame?
- what hinges to use?
- how to use my router to make the groove for the fluted glass to fit in?
- does bunning sell a plastic fluted glass replica?
-
Thank you again for your expertise.
Hi @Samc1234,
Unfortunately, you are going to have to make some concessions in terms of the frame, as the 30x12 is simply not going to be strong enough to create a frame like this. Something like this 32 x 32mm Tasmanian Oak, would be better, although I am still not 100% certain how well it would perform without additional bracing. If you used a mid-rail, so you have two separate clear panels, then you would likely be more successful.
Doors with frames like yours have a top and bottom rail (horizontal framing), then stiles (vertical framing) that sit between the two rails and are fixed through them. You would just need to screw up through the bottom rail and down through the top rail into the two styles. You could use two Zenith 10G x 50mm Zinc Plated Countersunk Head Wood Screws through each connection. You would then have to screw through the stiles into the mid rail.
The thicker timber that I've recommended would allow you to use standard butt hinges like you would with a door.
Most routers will have a guide that you can run along the edge of the timber to make a consistent groove in it. For example, this Ozito PXC 18V Brushless Trim Router PXBLTS-018 has one here -

If your router has one, this would be the simplest way to ensure you cut a nice, clean groove. If not, then you would have to set up a guide to run your router along. Something like the guide used in How To Cut Laminate Benchtop would work.
You'd have to use a straight cut router bit, like this Ultra 6.4mm Straight Router Bit, in the correct diameter for the groove. You would then just set the router to the correct depth and carefully run it along the timber.
The closest we have to fluted glass is this Sunlite 8 1.2 x 0.61m Clear Twinwall Polycarbonate Sheet. There is also Suntuf 1800 x 1000 x 3mm Clear Palclear PVC Sheets, which might work for you.
Allow me to tag @AlanM52, @Nailbag and @Noyade to see if they have any advice they can offer.
Let me know if you have any further questions.
Jacob
Hi @Samc1234
You could use a biscuit joiner to fasten your framer together. It's kinda like dowels except far more forgiving and very strong. Here's a beginners guide video.
Then once the frames are built, use a trim-router such as what @JacobZ suggested with a straight bit with follower bearing. The bearing helps to keep your cut dead straight and prevent over cutting. Follow this video I made which essentially if the correct method for making a picture frame. But your inserting a glass or PVC panel instead.
Nailbag
Hi @Samc1234
@JacobZ has mentioned a polycarbonate sheet above. Is this what you're thinking of, or are you going to use glass?
For me - I would be avoiding glass for a variety or reasons. I have used that polycarbonate sheeting and it's very easy to work with.
I would go with his wood choice - 12mm just seems simply too thin to me.
And I was thinking of mitred joints with biscuits.
Either a router table or multiple runs through a table saw for the trench.
Cheers.
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